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Sanahin Monastery

UNESCO-listed monastery and medieval academy

Sanahin Monastery
Photograph: Vahag851 / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Sanahin is a tenth-century monastery and medieval academy above the Debed canyon in Lori, inscribed by UNESCO alongside Haghpat 20 minutes away. Its name means 'older than that one', a dig at its neighbour.

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Getting there

About 2h35 from Yerevan, reached by a switchback road up from Alaverdi. The Soviet-era cable car from Alaverdi to Sanahin village has had a chequered operational history — check whether it is running.

What you see

Two churches joined by a vaulted academy hall where philosophy and medicine were taught, with stone benches still along the walls. There is a scriptorium, a belfry, a gavit and a dense field of khachkars. The Mikoyan brothers' museum in the village below has a MiG fighter parked outside it, which is an abrupt change of register.

What to pair it with

Haghpat, the Sanahin bridge of the twelfth century down in the canyon, Odzun on the plateau opposite, and Akhtala for the frescoes.

When to go

Spring to autumn. Mornings are better for the interiors, which are dark.

What is hard about it

Same problem as Haghpat: too far from Yerevan for comfort in a day. The academy hall and scriptorium are poorly lit and barely interpreted, so without a guide the significance is easy to miss. The village approach is scruffy.

Common questions

What does Sanahin mean?

'Older than that one' — traditionally a reference to Haghpat nearby.

Can you walk between Sanahin and Haghpat?

There is a route, but most people drive; it is 20 minutes by road.

What was taught at Sanahin?

Theology, philosophy, medicine and calligraphy. The academy hall where it happened still stands.

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